If it wasn't for the city of Wroclaw (pronounced Vroost-Wahf) then my journey across Poland would have been a let-down. Warsaw has no charm and Krakow is so-beautiful-it's-plastic, not to mention that it's completely overrun by tourists. Wroclaw, however, seemed more personable and more genuine. It's a college town that offers culture and history, but also highlights its 'alternative' character. Right behind the city's main square lined with baroque-style buildings and elegant restaurants is a maze of narrow streets where, between tired buildings scarred with graffiti, hide cafes and pubs with an artsy atmosphere. Late one afternoon I took a stroll in the city's large botanical garden, walked between towering gothic cathedrals made from red bricks then caught a live jazz show in a smoky pub. While there I also got to watch a couple of films that were a part of an American Film Festival. The films in the festival were all screened in English with Polish sub-titles and ranged from black and white classics like Citizen Kane and Casablanca to contemporary independent and art films.
Wroclaw was my last stop in Poland. Next on the itinerary was the city of Olomouc (pronounced Olo-moats), in the Moravian region of the Czech Republic. The Lonely Plant guidebook reckons it to be the second most beautiful city in the Czech Republic after Prague - quite a considerable statement to make, so I thought I'd check it out for myself. Another reason why I chose to make that city my starting point in the Czech Republic is its geographic location: roughly south of Wroclaw. However, problem is there's no easy way to get there. I had two options: (1) ride the train from Wroclaw and change trains three to four times or (2) ride the train back to Krakow - a 5 hour trip - then to Olomouc - an additional 4 to 5 hours.
While considering my options a random idea suddenly popped in my head: I'm not very far away from the border, so why not cross over to the Czech Republic on foot then find transportation to Olomouc from the first town I come across? On one fine morning I walked into the Wroclaw information centre to voice my idea. The young lad sitting behind the desk looked confused when I asked him for details on crossing the border on foot. After realizing I wasn't joking, he replied: 'this is the first time anyone asked me this question.' His colleague, a man around my age, jumped in and said that it was possible, adding that he has done it several times before. He took out a map of the region and started outlining a plan.
It sounded outrageous: I start in the small town of Międzygórze, hike up the Sudetes mountain range to Śnieżnik - the highest peak of the Śnieżnik massif (1424 m above sea level) - then back down on the other side, into the Czech Republic, to the village of Stříbrnice where I catch a bus to the nearest town. All this while carrying a big backpack and a smaller day-pack packed with belongings for a year's travel: over 20 kg of weight. The plan sounded completely insane, but I couldn't resist. I went for it.
No comments:
Post a Comment