The Baltic Chain

Vilnius Cathedral

At the end of one of the main thoroughfares in the old town of Vilnius is a cathedral sitting in the corner of a large square. The cathedral is of a gleaming white colour, its building imposing. On top of the main entrance are three statues of figures: two of them are in the background while the centre figure, Saint Helena, stands at the fore. One of her hands holds a large golden cross while the other hand hangs down to the ground, palm open as if inviting people to her. In the spacious square next to the cathedral people sit on the steps and relax, sometimes to study; young people ride their bikes or practice their skateboarding moves. At night I saw people there with telescopes looking up into the sky. 

Stebukla

Right below Saint Helena is a marble slab unlike the others. The slabs around the cathedral are mainly grey and bland, but this is one has Stebukla written in a circle with a star in the centre. People can be seen standing on the slab and turning around clockwise in a full circle, their eyes suddenly turning pensive for an instant then suddenly beaming. They just made a wish and hope that folklore will make it true. But that slab is also a marker of history: on it ended/begun one of the longest human chains formed in history. The date was August 23, 1989. Over one million people held hands for 15 minutes to protest against Soviet occupation. The chain spanned over 600 km and linked three different countries: Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia. Pictures reveal people of all ages, from the elderly to children. There is pride in their eyes and belief in their action. The Soviet empire may retaliate with brutality against this protest, brining about more pain and bloodshed, but the empire is already toppling. Independence is only a push away. 

A group of people finished taking their turn circling clockwise. I approached the slab after they walked away, looked down then in the distance, imagining the chain of people stretching away from me. I carefully stepped on the slab, closed my eyes and, in my mind, reached out in history to take a hand, to take my place in the chain  for freedom of the individual and against oppression from ideology.